I painted and tuned this car within the rules for the 3 Hours Retro Auto Endurance race.
This is a yearly event combined with a 1:1 car show.
The rules are as followed:
authorized modifications
Cars must be original , ballast and the magnet is prohibited.
Only the following modifications are permitted:
- To replace the original guide with Slot-it guides.
- Replace the braids , cables and eyelets (free type)
- Replace the screws for the motor carrier and body ' (brand and type free )
- Decorate the body required for CA27Z Ref .
Tires:
-The front tires are free, any slot brand but they must touch the track at technical control.
-The rear tires, 19x10 BRM , are provided by SRC73 club they can not be treated
-The front and rear tires should not exceed the bodywork.
Engines, transmission and chassis:
-Screw fixing or scotch on the original motor pod is authorized
-The gear ratio / original crown should be retained.
This leaves some space for fiddling here are some of the things I do..tips.
-The first thing I did was cook the chassis (to straighten it and to take any tension out of it.
I do this by using a flat metal plate and magnets and an oven dish, heat up the oven to 100c and boil at least 1 liter of water.
-Fix the chassis with magnets at strategic points to the metal plate make sure it ends up being very flat.
Heat up the oven dish while preheating the oven, when the oven is on temperature boil the water and take the over dish partially out of the oven.
Place the metal plate with the chassis in the oven dish and poor the boiling water directly on the chassis. Do all this with the motor pod in the chassis but wit the screws loosened.
-Change all the screws with Slot it brass flathead screws with a smooth shank, if you pay attention you will notice that the smooth piece is not always long enough.
So what you do in that case is put the screw in a Dremmel and sand a bit of the thread off with a Iron file while you are at it you would want to smooth the edges of the screw to give it less chance of "biting"into the chassis.
-When fixing the body and motor pod make sure you do not tighten the screws completely but turn them back 1,5 rotation and test the car from there.
This will give play and make the car much more forgiving and smoother.
-Change the braid to a softer more flexible braid, my favorite is MB Slot superflex (tinned for endurance) this will forecome the braid acting like ski's and allow you to lower the front better,
make sure that you get the braids as flat as possible where it comes trough the guide.
-Take the plastic front bushing axle spacers "thingies" out of the chassis (4) and replace these with Slot.It PA40 hex screws or similar then setup the wheels as low as possible while having them protrude above the chassis less then 1mm.
If racing on Ninco make sure the front axle has some play, give the wheels a spin and tweak them until they rotate a nice amount of time on their own.
-Ofcourse oil all rotating parts even the guide a little.
-When the body is attached check how easy it can move compared to the chassis, check if the body does not clamp on the chassis.
If it does sand the chassis a bit until you have a little freeplay, this takes away unpredictability.
-Do the same with the motorpod you might need to tweak the screw holes a bit, also check for any plastic flash that might limit the movement this needs to be sanded/cut away.
-True the front rims then use low profile tires and true those on the rims and lacquer them if allowed.
-There are more tricks but these are some of the main improvements one can make.
Here is the end result of our teams car.
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This is a yearly event combined with a 1:1 car show.
The rules are as followed:
authorized modifications
Cars must be original , ballast and the magnet is prohibited.
Only the following modifications are permitted:
- To replace the original guide with Slot-it guides.
- Replace the braids , cables and eyelets (free type)
- Replace the screws for the motor carrier and body ' (brand and type free )
- Decorate the body required for CA27Z Ref .
Tires:
-The front tires are free, any slot brand but they must touch the track at technical control.
-The rear tires, 19x10 BRM , are provided by SRC73 club they can not be treated
-The front and rear tires should not exceed the bodywork.
Engines, transmission and chassis:
-Screw fixing or scotch on the original motor pod is authorized
-The gear ratio / original crown should be retained.
This leaves some space for fiddling here are some of the things I do..tips.
-The first thing I did was cook the chassis (to straighten it and to take any tension out of it.
I do this by using a flat metal plate and magnets and an oven dish, heat up the oven to 100c and boil at least 1 liter of water.
-Fix the chassis with magnets at strategic points to the metal plate make sure it ends up being very flat.
Heat up the oven dish while preheating the oven, when the oven is on temperature boil the water and take the over dish partially out of the oven.
Place the metal plate with the chassis in the oven dish and poor the boiling water directly on the chassis. Do all this with the motor pod in the chassis but wit the screws loosened.
-Change all the screws with Slot it brass flathead screws with a smooth shank, if you pay attention you will notice that the smooth piece is not always long enough.
So what you do in that case is put the screw in a Dremmel and sand a bit of the thread off with a Iron file while you are at it you would want to smooth the edges of the screw to give it less chance of "biting"into the chassis.
-When fixing the body and motor pod make sure you do not tighten the screws completely but turn them back 1,5 rotation and test the car from there.
This will give play and make the car much more forgiving and smoother.
-Change the braid to a softer more flexible braid, my favorite is MB Slot superflex (tinned for endurance) this will forecome the braid acting like ski's and allow you to lower the front better,
make sure that you get the braids as flat as possible where it comes trough the guide.
-Take the plastic front bushing axle spacers "thingies" out of the chassis (4) and replace these with Slot.It PA40 hex screws or similar then setup the wheels as low as possible while having them protrude above the chassis less then 1mm.
If racing on Ninco make sure the front axle has some play, give the wheels a spin and tweak them until they rotate a nice amount of time on their own.
-Ofcourse oil all rotating parts even the guide a little.
-When the body is attached check how easy it can move compared to the chassis, check if the body does not clamp on the chassis.
If it does sand the chassis a bit until you have a little freeplay, this takes away unpredictability.
-Do the same with the motorpod you might need to tweak the screw holes a bit, also check for any plastic flash that might limit the movement this needs to be sanded/cut away.
-True the front rims then use low profile tires and true those on the rims and lacquer them if allowed.
-There are more tricks but these are some of the main improvements one can make.
Here is the end result of our teams car.
