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Racer 450s dimensions

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Doing a little research...Does anyone have the dimensions, L & W, of the Racer Maserati 450s?

Thanks

EM

Fiat 600 proto Kawasaki 1200 Andréa VELLEI

BALLITORINI 300 SL

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Small step backward with an improbable model. A fancy
During one of my works for a craftsman (Bitume Slot Racing) I had beheaded Mercèdes 300 sl to transform it there to roadster of Paul O Shea (winner national SCCA on 1957), the made work, I find myself with a roof in the box with surplus.
Explanation in photo

Mercèdes 300 sl BSR

Mercèdes Roadster BSR
A few years later I rediscover the roof and here is how was born my fancy The BALLITORINI 300


Transplantation


















Amazing isn't it
Kit mounted by one of my friends

Molding and distribution by my friend " Foulagom"
Step by step

Hardcastle & McCormick's Coyote

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Instead of diverting another thread, let's continue this discussion here!

QUOTE (In_the_Pit @ 8 Jun 2016, 21:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I believe the car used in the series was as below, it did look like the McLaren.
I went to the Dealers/Manufacturers in Newbury Berkshire during 1983 and sat in the display/demostrator model. I could not see a thing out of the front or the back. It was not a cheap kit either.

Car Info


UVA - Montage M6 GTR


One that's been on my list to do for a few years is this


When Stephen J Cannell was looking to produce another hit TV show he knew what the ingredients were, a catchy theme tune, lots of action & car chases and characters that had a real sparkle when they were together. That was difficult enough, but what about the hero's car? This is from a vintage era in TV, remember, from Starsky & Hutch's Ford Torino, the General Lee, Fall Guy's truck...

In the early 1980s, Manta kits in America started producing the Manta Montage, a copy of the McLaren M6GT. This would have been a very attractive road car but development was stopped after Bruce McLaren's death so only a few were produced.

For the TV show a few changes were made, the headlights were changed, the gullwing doors were cut back (because jumping in through the windows was cooler on TV) and the huge rear window was removed, leaving a large flat panel instead. Give it a red paintjob with catchy white graphics and we're done!

As usual, I started with a CAD model







The bodyshell was so low that I couldn't fit my usual chassis under it, however the small chassis with steering fits a treat. This is the SLS master, with SLS wheels too. It's much easier than trekking around for wheels which aren't quite the correct size - just make your own so you know it will fit.







More pictures as it develops!

Matra 610 "Napoléon" Cévennes 1965

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Matra 610: " Napoleon ". This car, conceived originally for the rally, is the first one of the lineage of the prototypes Matra. She appeared the first time to the rally of the Cévennes in 1965. Pilot Fargeon and navigato Servoz-Gavin, for her only race. The presented model is a reconstruction as before by L.E.P.A.F with for basis of spare parts, original having been destroyed.

The photos of the Master's degree







with kind regards
Ballit

Visit My Website for step by step

2004 - 2016

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Twelfth anniversary of BALLIT workshop. On this occasion for you a summary of my creations
Chronologically some photos of my prototypes.

The first one 4 cv proto for the French Forum FRANCE SLOT FORUM, Master's degree by Ballit, molding by MMK







Kit paints by my French friend FOULAGOM



The second version for the French forum FOLM 4 cv "Vive le Groupe F", Master's by Ballit, molding by MMK









Kit paints by a member of this forum



To follow in.........
Visit My Website

Distressed car a first attempt.

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Ok no laughing from the back please.This is my first go at distressing a car.I put wire wool
over the shell and sprayed it with a fine mist of water every couple of days and this is
the result.





I know some bits should not be rusty but this was really just a test to see how things went.

Cheers Andy.

1:43 diecasts

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I happened to be mooching in a "the works" store earlier and they had a basket full of very nicely detailed 1:43 models which were ripe for conversions. I noted a countach , gt40 and alfa montreal but there may have been others and at only £2 a pop they seemed to me to be a real bargain. sadly I came out empty handed as they had nothing in 1:32!

Cosworth F1 car 1969

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1969 was the year of the 4 wheel drives in F1. Established teams including Lotus, Mclaren and Matra all spent a lot of resources trying to make it work only to find as soon as they hit the track that on road tracks with lots of differing corners there was no advantage to be gained. This particularly because the driver needed to 'feel' and balance the front steering with the rear tyres. As soon as the front wheels were driven the steering was far too heavy and the driver could no longer feel the balance.

Although the technology was reasonably advanced by then, Ferguson having pointed the way with three limited slip differentials nearly a decade earlier, only some considerable time later did AWD come of age in motorsport although once again being particularly useful in low grip conditions such as rally and rallycross.

Into this arena, fresh off the huge success of the DFV which was just beginning its long and amazing career, swept Cosworth who decided to design their own F1 car. Being engineers of some repute they decided that it had to be 4WD as that was what looked like the next best thing. Robin Herd designed the car. Duckworth designed the engineering around a magnesium DFV and Costin tested it extensively.

So was born the 1969 Cosworth F1. Interesting for its total lack of any kind of designation or project number, something by then very fashionable in F1! As if it was destined always to be a unique car from the outset.....

Except of course that they made two and they were different from one another! The largest difference was the shape of the pannier tanks. They seem to have originated with the same narrow nose sides and only one was then modified to have the wider side pods. Other changes were the rear tea tray wing was replaced by the wing and the front brake feeding Naca duct was given a long scoop.

I will build the wide nose and rear wing version as it seems to be the 'final' evolution of the design prior to the project being abandoned.

In slot car racing I have not done a careful study of 4WD but it would appear that the early race pioneers, desperate for any kind of advantage and keen to try out new things had tried many options and set ups by the end of the 1960's and completely ruled it out of hand.

This is hardly a surprise given that perceived wisdom demonstrates that the guide and not the front tyres should touch the track. Plus with a guide no under or over steer is really possible. (?) As an aside this last seems interesting to me as the real cars had problems of understeer which, if not possible on a slot track, should mean only the advantages should be left?

My interests in 4WD in slot cars are:
1. What fun, just love the challenge of making it work
2. I hate perceived wisdom; really have to test it myself!
3. Some of those cars have never / rarely been modelled before.
4. There are technologies newly available out there which make it easier to do.
5. Maybe, just maybe those technologies might render different results under certain conditions.....

The Costin car is an obvious choice when one studies the technical difficulties of the project:
1. I need to get a guide and a limited slip differential under the nose as well as at the rear.
2. I need to get a motor next to a drive shaft through the body of the car.

So my set of initial mechanical thoughts are:
a) I need to get 3 limited slip differentials into the car.
cool.gif One between each wheel on front and rear axles.
c) One splitting the front and rear parts of the central axle.

Body and chassis wise I have no choice but to design and make my own. This I will do by scratching with my mouse rather than with my scalpel. For me it is quicker and will be much easier to ensure all the mechanical parts coordinate before assembly... No dimensions exist for the car, nor any decent plans are to be found on the internet so I am going to set the base dimensions on the Lotus 72 in terms of track and wheelbase. The idea behind that is two fold; a) selfishly I need to have a benchmark for testing and cool.gif they were both cars designed in similar moments in time (the Coswor slightly earlier perhaps...)

Testing
If I manage to get is to a decent running point I intend to put together a full test. I have some ideas about how this might be done but will leave that for later as I am getting way ahead of myself....

Note; this will not be a cheap project and given the likely complexity (and lack of actual result) is not intended as a commercial project.

I have spent some time modelling the car in the computer and have got to the point that until I receive some of the mechanical parts and measure them I cannot really progress.

I have deduced that the largest crown diameter of wheel axle diff. I can accommodate without recourse to UJ's is 18mm so my fingers are crossed that the parts ordered slightly blindly from Japan will be of that diameter or less! Of course most gears will allow some reduction and still work so if they turn out to be only slightly more we can proceed....

The guide and front diff. should both fit in the nose without compromises to the radiator extract duct depth.

At the rear the diff. crown will break out of the top of the frame but hidden under the rear wing this compromise I will accept...





Cheers
Andi

Recent Build

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It's been a while since I posted here. Until Recently I sort of have been "off my feed" so to speak. I saw the Scale Auto Viper white kit at a shop up in Tacoma and had a flash of inspiration for a livery. The build is fairly straight forward. I haven't done any mods other than adding weight and removing the magnet. The painting was done with alkyd lacquers for color. I used a new Iwata airbrush to create the feathered fiery front section and silver for the back. The decals were created in Adobe Photoshop and sent out to be ALPS printed. Once the paint and decals were applied clear coating was done with an automotive enamel, which cause the decals to bubble up. I stripped and repainted the car, applied the decals and clear coat. This time I had no problems with the clear.

The livery as I mentioned is based on a pun. The primary sponsor is a fictitious heat proofing company, "Vinn's Sheild"...






Yup... it's the "Vinn's Shield Viper..."

Greenman62

Casting driver figures

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Tried casting a figure for the first time. Mould has an air bubble in the crotch which luckily has cast as a blob which snaps off and one arm was lost in the cast due to trapped air. Nevertheless, pleased with my first attempt smile.gif



Die-Cast 1955 Chevy Stepside Pickup

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A 1:32 scale die-vast 1955 Chevy Step-Side Pickup that I converted to slot many years ago.

1955 Chevy

another candidate for a "block" build.

Urethane and weather!!

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Not sure this is in the right section but here it is!

I've notice of late that the urethane tyres perform better when there is moisture in the air. This morning the air was dry and the faster cars didn't have enough grip to push them too hard.

This evening, it's really muggy and the same cars are going like the clappers, a joy to push and make the most of the performance.

Is this a known phenomenon?

The rubber tyres seem exactly the same as they were this morning so I assume it's nothing to do with the track surface. All my tyres have come from Bruno and I think they are quite soft. Certainly they wear much quicker than I was expecting. I will have to try some of the other makes and see if there is a difference.

Ferrari 612P Can Am, size problems

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I am just going to buy a resin Ferrari 612P Can Am - the version with the spioler close behind the cockpit.

I need help from someone who has this car ready to run or as an unbuilt model.
My problem is the size.

All sources I find say

Length 4200 mm
width 2240 mm
wheelbase 2450 mm

I am confused about the width.

Is the 32 nd scale model really 70 mm wide ?

If not, does anybody know why not ? And how wide is it then ?

If yes, how wide is the body across the front wheelarches then ?


I hope someone can help...

Roland



Where in the UK can I get a jig??

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have been thinking about making my own chassis blink.gif but I think a jig would be handy
so to those in the know... what should I get and where do I get it. dont need a all singing all dancing super jig , nice and simple for me to start with.
I have looked on that eb site but cant find any used or new sad.gif
also will a normal soldering iron do for piano/brass soldering??

Brabham BT44 1/32

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Juast finished the chassis for my 1/32 Brabham BT44. it is bras and piano wire construction with hinged and sliding side pans, The motor is An SRp 30K Slimline with NSR gears, a Slot.it deep guide and PRS wheels and tyres. The body is an old Scalextric one which needs some work on it and the tyres need glueing and trueing. It is going to be finished in Martini colours with a Carlos Reuterman livery.







Tony

Talbot T150 SS

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Hello Goodnight,

I usually wear a long, heavy story about the car presented.




Not today







Simply say that this fact based on a copy (if a copy) of MMK Talbot.







I had nothing more than the body.Only





well or bad, I do not know, but I had fun and that's what counts.



The hardest?? car color

BR

Jordi

guide placement.

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is there any practical reason not to set the guide position in line with front axle rather than ahead of it in the usual position? I'll only be rug racing so ultimate performance most certainly isn't an issue.

Porsche 356 A , Le Mans 1956

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Hello All, good moring,

in 1956 two Porsche type 356 take part at Le Mans race.
One of them with 1,3 litre engine reached finish line in 13th. position.

My model # 34 shows the car driven by two french drivers.
For base I take the -GTM-resine body which is a copy of the -NINCO- model
To get the model right in scale 1/32 to receive proportions near by the original I had to cut off more than 3mm oversize in width. ( length and wheelbase were fine.)
The following picture makes it clear. (left -NINCO-body oversized more than 3mm !!, right -GTM-body after shortening width.)



The chassis is a selfmade construction. Using -polystyrol- boards (1,0 and 1,5mm thickness).
Two main longitudinal beams are cut off fixed along the motor-amount spare part.
Pic up position and floor bases backwards are connecting the beams completing the chassis. All parts are glued with -cyanacrylat-.



All details together before final assembling starts.



Here is the result










thanks for showing

vbr. claus





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