Quantcast
Channel: SlotForum Scratchbuilding
Viewing all 748 articles
Browse latest View live

Double wammy Lamborghini...

$
0
0





I am thinking of a double wammy here.

Both get these race worthy and see what DASC can do with the four wheel drive and monstrous motor they sport.

Vinyl Peel'n'Stick from Patto for the Gallardo:
Lmborghini Gllardo GT3 - Blancpain No 25 - BES - 2012

Paul Gage PU tires, PGT narrow and wide AutoArt 1/24 slicks for the Murcielago.
Not sure what to use for the Gallardo, I think I got it with non standard drive chain... But there will be PGT's on that one too.

Delicatezza italiana

$
0
0
Well, this is my first topic in the scratch building section. My original plan was to finalize my track first before starting with scratch building (again, after a ten year spell) but staring at a few kits in my project box, I could not resist this time! And why not, the track won't ever be ready-ready and working on the cars is just as much fun!

So this is the plan: I am going to build John Surtees' 1964 title winning Ferrari 158 and simultaneously (why not start with two?), the Ferrari 1512, sometimes called 512. The latter is an evolution of the 158 (= 1.5 litre V8) with a 12 cylinder engine (so 1512 = 1.5 litre V12) and was introduced for the last two races of 1964 and then raced for the entire '65 season.
The 158 was the more successful car, winning the German and Italian GP's and subsequently the championship for John Surtees. The 1512 finished several times on the podium but unfortunately never won a race.
The kits are from Penelope Pitlane and I plan to add some additional detail along the way.

For the 158 I have chosen John Surtees' Monza Grand Prix winner with the No.2 and for the 1512 I will build the No.17 that finished second in the 1965 Monaco Grand Prix driven by Lorenzo Bandini.



Starting point:





I started with the 158, first cleaning the body and removing rough edges. Then I opened the air vents on the sides of the nose since this is a very characteristic feature of this car. I also drilled the cylinder heads to give it more power, uhhhh detail and depth tongue.gif . I removed the gearbox for now as it rubbed against the gears. I will reposition it later as part of the rear suspension.



That's it for now. More updates will follow soon.

Cheers cool.gif
René

vac form windows for Scalex mini

$
0
0
Does anyone make these

Built a mini up from the old shells pendles had...well slot city....but they come sans glass.

I may have stumbled onto something?

$
0
0
I am in the process of building a plastic chassis out of a donor car and reinforcing and building up using bits of odd plastic. So I need to glue bits of plastic together. I am using superglue and epoxy.

I have discovered, I think, that although some plastics don't like being glued with epoxy, as sometimes it doesn't adhere very well. That it works better if the parts are "painted" with superglue first, left overnight. Then glued with epoxy.

Testing is ongoing using the small plastic dishes that one gets at KFC and the like for ketchup. I use these to mix epoxy. They are very flexible and shinny and epoxy doesn't stick so well , unless...

Lancia D20 C Le Mans 1953

$
0
0
Hello All,

Again a new slot car model for my collection of historic Le Mans racing cars.
In 1953 the -Scuderia Lancia- entered race with 4 identic built up racing sports cars.
However no one of them could finish the race.

The french manufacturer -BSR- developed this kit some times ago.
My slot car runs on a selfmade chassis for front motor position and rear wheel drive.
Motor amount is taken from an old -Fly- base. This part is built in between two longitudinal chassis frames
which are connected by a floor plate. ( polystyrol sheets, thickness 0,5mm and 1mm )



Therefore you can do a tri-dimensional cockpit insert instead of a horizontal motor covering plate.



Front and rear main window glazing is taken from the kit (cut off from vac-form part)
The side windows (slide function at the original) are composed by two single glazing sheets ( thickness 0,25mm)
and a metal (fotoetched) window frame part taken from the kit. Both put together and built in the body aperture.



...and here is the result:........














I hope you like it......

vbr. claus






my take on creating rust

$
0
0
rather than bulking out my rat rod bus thread , I thought I would show how I replicated rust in a separate thread. having been inspired by jsl's rat racers I spent a while on youtube and thought I'd have a crack at it. I didn't want to fork out on expensive materials , other than bits and bobs I already had to hand , I bought some acrylics for 80p a pop and a set of cheap make-up brushes (ooooh ducky!). after I trial on some packaging I thought it was going to be plain sailing but two cock-ups later I wish I had practised a little more. I'll mention those little mishaps as we go. no guarantees but I'm happy with the result for a first timer.

I used a red aerosol primer to give an even base.
http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag85/g...zpsovkb5m37.jpg

with a small piece of sponge and or short bristle brush , stipple on paint starting with darkest through to lightest. I used black , burnt umber , burnt sienna and pumpkin. blend the colours until they look "right". an ice cream tub lid is ideal for blending and watering the colours down.
http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag85/g...zpszwuhnbzw.jpg


I ended up with this.
http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag85/g...zpsxb05jyif.jpg

slightly dampen (very slightly...this was too wet!), the add salt crystals to the parts that you want to show through the finished job.
http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag85/g...zpsdpv62wnf.jpg

lay on a light coat of paint (I know its a different piece.)
http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag85/g...zpswlcjwajm.jpg

when the paint had tacked off enough , you can brush the salt away with a old toothbrush to reveal the "rust" beneath. more detailing can be added in the same way on top with brush or sponge.
http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag85/g...zpswmahuxik.jpg


just realised that photobucket is being a donkey and I cant copy image links...I will try and put images up again....but you get the idea. (or check out my rat bus thread)

Revell Nissan Rally Raid

$
0
0
Hopefully somebody out there can help me.

I'm looking for either an unbuilt or built or converted Revell easykit of the Mcrae/Thorner Nissan Navara Rally Raid Dakar car from 2004/05.

Any clues as to where I can find one or if anybody has one to sell would be appreciated.

I think I've found one online in Holland and another in New Zealand but shipping and bank charges have put me off a bit.

tidings

Twigster

A bit to realistic... :'(

$
0
0
http://www.racingsportscars.com/wm/photo/1...=&mode=Null

So, I got the car. And it looked far better than expected.. thumbsup.gif

Only problem was the lack of varnish.
Somewhere my mind slipped...
...and I didn't remove or cover windshields and headlamps. clap.gif

First layer was actually OK. Using Tamiya's varnish spray.
But it's a bit expensive, so after that I used sone more generic acrylic varnish spray.
Which I shouldn't have done... help.gif grump.gif censored.gif

The windshields now look fairly much as those depicted in that pictures from Le Mans 1977.

Can this be rescued?

Erik

Retro Racer

$
0
0
Here is my latest car for retro class racing. A 1963 Ford Galaxie with a scratchbuilt brass and piano wire chassis, it has a central pivot and sliding pans. The motor is a TSRF Falcon, guide and gears are Slot.it and wheels and tyres from Pendle's own range.







Tony

Paint Removal from plastic kits & Klear?

$
0
0
I just stripped a Scaleauto car with Isopropyl Alcohol 99.9% pure with an old toothbrush and it worked a treat!

I have read on this forum that it reacts with plastic, but it worked fantastic for me, as I just do a small section for less than a minute then rinse with water, then repeat!

I have used Acetone and tried the same method and my poor Honda HSV 010 is now a little bit melted, it not only removed the paint! It was suggested to try this, but mega fail!

Wet sanding works OK for big areas, but panel lines are hard if not impossible to clean out. I have tried a sharp knife, but I always slip no matter how careful I am!

I have also tried airbrushing my cars with a proper booth, and setting, but I always end up with bits on the surface, and when I wet sand very, very gently some bits always go back to the original

surface so we have to start again? I have tried leaving it in the booth to dry, under a plastic box, but still I have to start again!

One more thing I have bought the ne Klear and also managed to find someone on ebay selling a small bottle at over £12, but as no one else seems to have it I needed to try it

The new Klear does not work for me, as it not only smells totally different the texture is off when sprayed or brushed on, so any thoughts anyone? help.gif

Scratch build in paper

$
0
0
So I've had brass chassis laid around for a while, and I happened to be looking through a folder on my hard drive that had a load of caricature oversize paper cars from a Japanese site I found some years ago.

One thing led to another and before you could say Jack Robinson I had printed an Alfa out and attached it to said brass chassis. It was the most fun I have had with a slot car in ages, I couldn't stop smiling as this insane looking thing flew round my track.
I think it would be great for the kids to have one each and there is no fear of them hurting them, simply print a fresh one and back to the racing.





hope they make you all smile a little lol

Wayne

Lotus 30

$
0
0
I fancied a little Lotus 30 as there was a resin body for sale on eBay. I decided to try and do some cockpit detail so tested a side-wider chassis from Penelope Pitlane and to my surprise it fitted (after ages spent fiddling) and the project was on.

The body needed a bit of cleaning up:-

• Clean away all excess ‘flash’
• Remove excess moulding from underneath/inside
• Cut away driver and cockpit. My driver came with deformed hands so wouldn’t have been much use anyway.
• Cut out the inlet opening over the engine.
• Cut out the front air vents, front side lights, front headlights, rear lights and exhausts.
• The rebate for the screen needed squaring up and re-sinking.
• Remove the wobbly blister on the front bonnet.
• Cut out the old petrol filler cap.
• Re-scribe all the shut lines with a square edged cutter.
• Add new rear vent and location hole for additional rear light.

I also wanted to have those nice lightly flared wheel arches and a flare on the inlet opening so these were added with styrene and filler.

The front and rear lights were made from lenses placed on/in styrene tubes and fitted into the drilled openings.

The front side lenses were made from two part epoxy coloured orange and ‘fitted’ over the styrene plugs.

The screen was given an edging from styrene.

The inlet stack was eight eyelets glued onto styrene sheet.

A roll over bar was formed from brass rod and then covered with heat shrink.

Brass tube made up the new exhausts.

Dzus fastenings on boot and bonnet were drilled out, re-countersunk and replaced with tiny styrene versions.

The cockpit was made form very thin styrene sheet, as was the seat an dashboard. Steering wheel and extinguisher came from other kits.

The driver body was a reworked MRRC with the head from the resin kit.

The chassis was built with the extra side pans used as the main front axle holder and the normal axle holder placed to one side to be used in some other project. PP users will note the left and right sides have been swapped over.

New mounts for the chassis from styrene and epoxy.

A little wiring harness takes the power from the braids to the motor thereby allowing it to be hidden away tidily.

The motor needed grinding away the inner corner to clear the oilite bearing fitted inside out and cutting the endbell a little for the same reason. This was done so I could fit the wheels I already had which meant really squeezing on the width so that it would all fit within the body width.

Paint was Halfords rattle can, decals from somewhere (who knows where), filler cap was real foil (my first attempt – it’s a nightmare to handle), detailing with brush.

Voila!


















Microprocessor controller

$
0
0
While posting here on SlotForum about some car builds in Scratch Building I thought I may as well share with you my scratch built hand controller. I hope this is the most appropriate forum... I’m sure I’ll receive a post or two if it isn’t.

I’m not much of an analog electronics person but can hold my own with digital, programming, repurposing stuff and working things out for myself... just the right skills (I hoped).

The basis of this controller is:-
• A microprocessor to receive signals from a hand controller and adjust he output of a dual MOSFET speed controller. The microprocessor has access to car/track voltage and current if I write the code to use this additional information.
• A wireless connection between the hand controller and the ‘magic box’.
• Control via switches and potentiometers on the ‘box’ to adjust any of the settings in the algorithm that controls track power and braking.
• LEDs on the ‘box’ that lets me debug the code and see what is going on when in use. You can’t watch the lights while racing but I can watch what other (much better racers than me) people are doing when they use it.

My algorithms allows:-
• Speed and braking to be controlled
• Mapping to allow the relationship of the trigger position and track power to be adjusted. Two map shapes are possible and may be adjusted through 256 steps from one extreme to the other of each.
• “Snatch” control adjustment to soften the power delivery when the trigger is snatched on.
• Start/minimum power as a percentage of full power. That is the voltage delivered once the trigger is moved.
• Full power adjustment as a percentage of that available from the track power source. It happens at full trigger pull position.
• Coasting power. This is a percentage of the full power and comes into play when one of the buttons on the hand controller is pressed. Coasting can be either set to be controlled from minimum to coast power or coast power to full power.
• No power braking can be adjusted from 0% to 100% that the back EMF from the motor is capable of giving.
• Roll braking is adjustable from 0% to 100% but comes into operation whenever the trigger is released even if it isn’t fully released. This means you can get some braking force without having to come off the trigger completely.

The hand controller is powered by a battery inside the handle and the box by a battery on the top or from the PC is connected for development purposes.

The hand controller is typically ‘me’ and is a reworked Scalextric (with a useful little hand extension made from a Hermasetas container! All the electronics inside is replaced and built onto a new platform. Trigger feel is exceptionally smooth and can be very light but has had an additional spring fitted to the trigger. The trigger is on its fourth shape and now feels about right.

For the time being the insides of the box are partly built on a breadboard so I can change things around easily. Consequently it looks a bit of a rats nest inside.









Mark 2 Jaguar

$
0
0
This is an ongoing piece of work. I have some details such as number plates and lights to do yet but you can see my progress so far.









The body is a resin repop of the Ocar repop of the slotclassic body. Wheels are lathe trued Ninco painted plastic wirewheels.
Tires are the Ninco classic 20x7. The interior tray is a vac form with resin figures added from the morgue.


Hopefully someone will make me an offer I cannot refuse.....after I fit the headlight lenses and number plates of course.

the angle of dangle...

$
0
0
my next little project will sit on an old scalextric tr7 chassis. not ideal but it getting to slim pickings in my box o' bits and its going to get pretty chopped about anyway. to gain a bit of clearance inside ive thought hooking out the Johnson and bunging a Mabuchi in instead. as in true fashion the body in this one (not tr7!) will sit a lot lower than intended. so my point is , if I mount the motor flat rather than inclined (but still using the std rear mount points) , will the gear mesh still work?

!963 STP Novi

$
0
0
My latest project, a 1963 STP Novi. It has a much modified Penelope Pitlane Chassis with a rattle plate, MRRC 30K slimline motors, Avantslot gears, Pendle wheels and tyres. and a Slot.it deep guide.





Tony

blown the whole years budget..

$
0
0
I was only thinking the other day that I haven't bought a car , kit , scrapper , donor or anything for ages (not that I haven't got enough "to do's" for a couple of lifetimes) , then low and behold I find myself faced with a tough choice. do I buy the Camaro , the Aston , Ferrari or Merc . sod the expense I told myself , have all four ...good job I was in poundland!!! ok , so they will never be show queens but they are pretty much bang on for scale , not too bad for shape and if all else fails , at a pound a pop I'll have some cheap mirrors and wheel inserts. the "Ferrari" as we shall call it (as they are just branded as generic sports cars) is probably the easiest option for conversion as it is essentially a conventional shell , with the "merc" being a real oddball , shame as its the one I fancy the most and will nicely sit on a 360 degree Nissan chassis!







Scale drivers

$
0
0
Why are so many of the drivers supplied with RTR cars so small, or malformed, or out of proportion?

I guess so they can fit in the space left over but even upper bodies seem minuscule.

Anyone suggest a source of nicely scaled driver figures for scratch building please ?

Cheers Alan

die casts

$
0
0
came across this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/National-Motor-M...=item5b0d60a268 and thought what an awesome slot it would make (sidewinder in the boot..trunk for those over there...already has steering etc etc) but wondered if they are just too damn heavy? granted it would never be a racer but would still need to perform fairly well!!

Stabo Mercedes 608 conversions

$
0
0
Have made a start on what I intend as a series of truck conversions, using the excellent Stabo Mercedes 608 as a base. I'll not be using trucks in otherwise good condition for these, so no need for the purists to get upset. I'll post some progress picture's, when I make some. Regards Jason
thumbsup.gif



Viewing all 748 articles
Browse latest View live


<script src="https://jsc.adskeeper.com/r/s/rssing.com.1596347.js" async> </script>